Jeep Cherokee (XJ): Service procedures

Clutch component lubrication

Proper clutch component lubrication is important to satisfactory operation. Using the correct lubricant and not over lubricating are equally important. Apply recommended lubricant sparingly to avoid disc and pressure plate contamination.

Clutch and transmission components requiring lubrication are:

  •  Pilot bearing.
  •  Release lever pivot ball stud.
  •  Release lever contact surfaces.
  •  Release bearing bore.
  •  Clutch disc hub splines.
  •  Clutch pedal pivot shaft bore.
  •  Clutch pedal bushings.
  •  Input shaft splines.
  •  Input shaft pilot hub.
  •  Transmission front bearing retainer slide surface.

NOTE: Never apply grease to any part of the clutch cover, or disc.

RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS

Use Mopart multi-purpose grease for the clutch pedal bushings and pivot shaft. Use Mopart high temperature grease (or equivalent) for all other lubrication requirements. Apply recommended amounts and do not over lubricate.

Clutch linkage fluid

If inspection or diagnosis indicates additional fluid may be needed, use Mopart brake fluid, or an equivalent meeting standards SAE J1703 and DOT 3. Do not use any other type of fluid.

Clutch fluid level

The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at the factory during assembly operations.

The hydraulic system should not require additional fluid under normal circumstances. In fact, the reservoir fluid level will actually increase as normal clutch wear occurs. For this reason, it is important to avoid overfilling, or removing fluid from the reservoir.

Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 9). An indicator ring is provided on the outside rim of the reservoir.

Be sure to wipe the reservoir and cover clean before removing the cover. This will avoid having dirt or foreign material fall into the reservoir during a fluid level check.

Fig. 9 Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir And Cap
Fig. 9 Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir And Cap

1 - CAP
2 - FILL LINE
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - RESERVOIR

Flywheel

Inspect the flywheel whenever the clutch disc, cover and housing are removed for service. Check condition of the flywheel face, hub, ring gear teeth, and flywheel bolts.

Minor scratches, burrs, or glazing on the flywheel face can be reduced with 180 grit emery cloth. However, the flywheel should be replaced if the disc contact surface is severely scored, heat checked, cracked, or obviously worn.

Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel surface is manufactured with a unique contour that would be negated by machining. However, cleanup of minor flywheel scoring can be performed by hand with 180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment. Replace the flywheel if scoring is deeper than 0.0762 mm (0.003 in.).

Heavy stock removal by grinding is not recommended.

Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel cracking or warpage after installation. It can also weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.

Check flywheel runout if misalignment is suspected.

Runout should not exceed 0.08 mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the dial indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the clutch housing attaching bolts.

Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may cock the flywheel causing excessive runout.

Check condition of the flywheel hub and attaching bolts. Replace the flywheel if the hub exhibits cracks in the area of the attaching bolt holes.

Install new attaching bolts whenever the flywheel is replaced and use Mopart Lock N' Seal, or Loctite 242 on the replacement bolt threads.

Recommended flywheel bolt torques are:

  •  142 N·m (105 ft. lbs.) for 6-cylinder flywheels
  •  95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.) for 4-cylinder flywheels

Inspect the teeth on the starter ring gear. If the teeth are worn or damaged, the flywheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is the recommended and preferred method of repair.

In cases where a new flywheel is not readily available, a replacement ring gear can be installed. However, the following precautions must be observed to avoid damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.

(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment reference on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this purpose.

(2) Wear protective goggles or approved safety glasses. Also wear heat resistent gloves when handling a heated ring gear.

(3) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or punch.

(4) The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.

This means the gear must be expanded by heating in order to install it. The method of heating and expanding the gear is extremely important.

Every surface of the gear must be heated at the same time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or similar enclosed heating device must be used. Temperature required for uniform expansion is approximately 375 F.

CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can cause localized heating that will damage the flywheel.

In addition, using the torch to heat a replacement gear will cause uneven heating and expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after installation.

(5) The heated gear must be installed evenly to avoid misalignment or distortion. A shop press and suitable press plates should be used to install the gear if at all possible.

(6) Be sure to wear eye and hand protection. Heat resistent gloves and safety goggles are needed for personal safety. Also use metal tongs, vise grips, or similar tools to position the gear as necessary for installation.

(7) Allow the flywheel and ring gear to cool down before installation. Set the assembly on a workbench and let it cool in normal shop air.

CAUTION: Do not use water, or compressed air to cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by water or compressed air can distort, or crack the gear and flywheel.

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